Buckthorn, also known as Rhamnus, is a natural dye plant that has been used for centuries to create beautiful and vibrant colors. It belongs to the Rhamnaceae family and is native to various regions around the world, including Europe, Asia, and North America.

One of the most commonly used species of buckthorn for dyeing purposes is Rhamnus cathartica, commonly known as Common Buckthorn or European Buckthorn. The plant is characterized by its small deciduous leaves, thorny branches, and small greenish flower clusters. Buckthorn berries are small black and green fruits that contain valuable pigments for dyeing.

The process of dyeing with buckthorn involves extracting the pigments from the plant's berries, bark, or leaves. The resulting color obtained from buckthorn can range from warm yellow to dark orange, depending on the specific part of the plant used, the mordants applied, and the dyeing techniques used.

Buckthorn is known for its excellent lightfastness, which means that the colors it produces are resistant to fading when exposed to sunlight. This makes it a popular choice among natural dyers who value longevity and color stability in their creations.

To extract the dye from buckthorn, the plant material is typically boiled in water or soaked in an alkaline solution. The resulting liquid is then used as a dye bath in which fibers or fabrics are immersed to absorb the color. Mordants such as alum or iron can be added to modify and enhance the shades obtained from buckthorn.

The versatility of buckthorn as a dye extends to various natural fibers, including wool, silk, cotton, and linen. Each type of fiber can contribute slightly different tones, adding to the allure and uniqueness of the dyeing process.

In addition to textile dyeing, buckthorn has been used in other applications. For example, its medicinal properties have been known for centuries, particularly for its gentle laxative effects. The bark and berries of certain buckthorn species are used in traditional herbal remedies.

As with any natural dye, experimenting with different concentrations, combinations, and techniques can yield a wide range of colors and effects. Buckthorn offers natural dyers the opportunity to create rich, warm tones that evoke natural beauty and earthly sophistication.

Please note that the use of buckthorn for dyeing purposes may be subject to regulations or evaluations related to sustainability and conservation. It is essential to ensure responsible sourcing and harvesting practices to protect the plant and its ecosystem.

Product review: 

Charlotte Treglown used our buckthorn seed powder. She said:

"I used themazi’s buckthorn seed dye on cotton and wool. I mordanted my cotton with their oak gall tannin, followed by alum with soda ash. The wool fabric I used was mordanted with alum. The buckthorn dye gave me some really beautiful strong golden yellows, which I was able to modify to olive greens with iron. I also obtained some lovely mustard and darker brown/green shades by increasing the pH with soda ash and then dipping it in iron. I was delighted by how strong the colors were."

Charlotte is based in the UK. She uses natural dyeing and eco-printing to create unique pieces from recycled fabrics.

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